California to D.C. in 30 Days . . . or BUST!

Last month, my return trip from Bangkok was quite an experience.  It wasn't because of the flight or the plane or my seat.  Instead, it was because of the flight attendants!

I'm totally kidding.  It was an experience because I left Bangkok on a Monday (August 3) at 4pm, and after just a short two-hour layover in Taipei, Taiwan, I was back on a plane to then arrive in San Francisco at 9pm that same Monday night. Talk about making up some time!  You know, I could really afford to do that more often--especially on days before finals.

I made it back safely to San Francisco, but I was completely phone-less until the following day (since I somehow lost my BlackBerry during my trip despite never once using it).  Fortunately, I secured plans with a few close friends to meet me at my favorite spot for some long-awaited IPAs in the heart of downtown Berkeley.  They came--thankfully--because I was homeless and in dire straights for a place to crash the next two nights in Berkeley.

Walking out of the Downtown Berkeley Bart station, I was immediately hit with the accompanying smells, sights, and sounds of Shattuck Avenue.  This felt quite similar to the culture shock I had experienced when I arrived into Bangkok because in many ways, I had been conditioned to numerous aspects of Thai lifestyle--growing accustomed to the smells and sounds of Bangkok after ten weeks.  This feeling soon subsided when I found my friends waiting for me at Jupiter with beers in hand.  We got to drinking our tasty IPAs (very good beer at Jupiter, I might add), and it wasn't long before I shared stories to catch them up from my time in abroad.  Thank you to everyone for coming out--both nights!

With only one full day (and another night) in Berkeley, I had a laundry list of tasks I needed to get accomplished in preparation for my month-long journey across the United States (as well as four months in DC and a month-long Christmas vacation to Europe).  

Waking up early the next morning (but not yet jet-lagged . . . ), I was immediately too busy to think: I needed a new phone; I needed to pick up my car that was parked three hours away; I needed to get a storage unit; I needed to sort through the things I owned into a car's worth of things I'd need for DC; I needed, still, to visit a bunch of people in Berkeley; I needed to pick up my mail; and finally, I needed to plan all my stops for my cross-country trip.  Oh yeah, I also needed to fit in a few meals, a shower, and call my parents.  

Thanks to a good recommendation for breakfast from Mike Lorek for breakfast at Meal Ticket in Berkeley, we were able to quickly fill our stomachs with a trout and scrambled egg breakfast--my first meal stateside.  I think I did it right:

I (somehow and miraculously) managed to get everything on my to-do list accomplished, and not only that, my car started right up after sitting unattended for ten weeks.  Looking back now, I don't think I could have completed all of the tasks I had on my plate in that single day had I encountered even the slightest hiccup/setback.  

Later that evening, I mapped out a serious agenda for my road trip.  Here's how it looked:

Berkeley, CA (3 days) -- Sacramento, CA (1 day) -- Los Angeles, CA (2 days) -- Phoenix, AZ (4 days) -- Albuquerque, NM (1 day) -- Roswell, NM (1/2 day) -- San Antonio, TX (2 days) -- New Orleans, LA (1 day) -- Tallahassee, FL (1 day) -- Atlanta, GA (2 days) -- Asheville, NC (2 days) -- Knoxville, TN (1 day) -- Lexington, KY (1 day) -- South Bend, IN (1 day) -- Indianapolis, IN (4 days) -- Washington, DC (4 months!).

Wow.  As I read back over this, I am exhausted--even overwhelmed--by my aspirations, but I am quickly reminded of my ability to reunite with many distant friends from my days in the Air Force as well as my chance to visit family on their home turfs. 

Below is a brief photo recap of my stops along the way.  Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture with every person I saw or every place I visited, but the photos should provide a good account of the adventure and unique opportunity to drive across our beautiful nation. (Disclaimer: The photos were taken with my BlackBerry, so I apologize for poor quality).

In Sacramento, CA visiting Air Force and Sac City friends.  (L-R) Hudson, Justin, Kelli, me, Ian, and Mindy).

In Los Angeles about to eat jerk chicken enchiladas at Santa Monica Beach with my cousin Rachel, her boo Nate, and their pup Ooshki.

Santa Monica Beach, Los Angeles, CA

A reunion! These three  (L-R: Brady, Nate, and Rachel) put me up in Chiang Rai, Thailand, and again here in Santa Monica.  Thanks Rachie and Nate--I miss you both, Brady, and Ooshki too.

Obviously, 10 weeks without driving did a number on my parallel parking skills.

Second day in Los Angeles--on my way to see Mr. Justin Granath.

Me and old friend, Chris Hart, from USAF.  I hadn't seen him in over 6 years.  Coincidentally, he happened to be in Los Angeles visiting his family while on a mid-tour from Seoul, Korea.  Great seeing you brother.

Mr. Sparks and Mr. Granath doing it big at Beso.

Arriving into the great state of Arizona to see my momma and my favorite picture from my road trip.

Just your typical Phoenix sunset later that night.  Second favorite picture.

Big party weekend in Scottsdale, AZ, for Miss Celia's birthday. (L-R: Kevin, Amanda Cocciotti, Celia Cocciotti, shme)

Poolside with Kevin in Scottsdale, AZ.

Me and Mr. Dave Lopez in his hometown, Albuquerque, NM.  We partied (and worked) together in the Air Force and did it big in Cyprus for four months in the summer of 2004.  That was about the last time I saw him.  We look much sexier now.

The real deal: the UFO Museum in Roswell, NM.  

Aliens.  No joke.

Me my beautiful and only sister, Erin Elizabeth, outside her home in San Antonio, TX.  I love you sis.

Southern cooking done right: Creole and Dixie beer on Bourbon Street, New Orleans, LA.

Real jazz at Preservation Hall in the French Quarter, New Orleans, LA.

A Saturday night on Bourbon Street in New Orleans, LA.  Insane.

Swimming with Makenzie Ann, my cousin's daughter in Asheville, NC (think: the place where the Obamas had a vacation).  For the record, she has the largest Silly Bandz collection I have ever seen, and she didn't share a single one.  Stinker.

The matriarch of the Sparks' family, Mrs. Marie Grace Sparks.  An angel on Earth and my gramma.

I now realize I didn't take enough pictures, but I really want to thank everyone during my trip who accommodated me, took me out, fed me, baked for me, hugged me, kissed me, set me straight, shared music with me, and laughed with me.  So, thank you: Ruben Chavez, Mike Lorek, Kevin Miller, Christa Hall, Arjun Ghosh, Elliott Garcia, Michael Cooper, Blanche Levy, Sunchai Duday Muy, Melanie Haller, Justin Turner, Kelli Hanniford, Hudson Brower, Ian "Skian" Brown, Rachel Sparks-Graeser, Nate Graeser, Ooshki, Brady McGowan, Justin Granath, Chris Hart, Aunt Amy and Uncle Phil, Momma and Jim, Celia Cocciotti, Shelby Stark, Amanda Cocciotti, Jessica Hughes, Dave Lopez, Sis, Jeff Montgomery, Ally Niemier, Damion Leimbach, Shawn and Andrea Ondeck, Leslie and Makenzie Cunningham, The Mann Group, Nicholas Gross, Emily and Jeff Presley, Dad and Linda, Granny and Bob, Grandma and Grandpa, Carly Niemier, and Desmond and Patricia Hunt.  If you are reading this, thank you and know I want to return the favor while I live in DC--please come!

Now that I have been settled in D.C. for just over three weeks already, it's high time I get to blogging about all the craziness that is D.C. with updates on my internship, my residential building, my new friends, cooking, and our crazy nights out.  Needless to say, there is a lot to share, but for now, I need sleep.  Goodnight.

Next up on The Dandygram: Hitting the Ground Walking in D.C.

Until the next Dandygram . . .

This website should satisfy some curiosities about what DC is like until I can get around to typing up the Dandygram for my cross country road trip.  Enjoy!

The Last 30 Days In Southeast Asia . . .

This is going to be my last Dandygram . . . from my time in Southeast Asia that is!

I still have so much more to share about my adventures since I've been home--traveling across country, visiting friends and family, and more to come in the next few months while I live and work in Washington, D.C. , but I must conclude the best way I know how on my final days in Southeast Asia. So, I will do my best to wrap up my summer trip in this Dandygram as well as briefly reflect on the highlights . . .

With my time on Koh Phi Phi coming to an end after one last hoo-rah for July 4th, Andres and I made our way back to Bangkok for the next few nights before his flight back to Argentina. Honestly, we were both very happy to get back to Bangkok. As for me, I had made friends that I looked forward to reuniting with; Andres wanted to hang out on Khao Sarn Road for a few days. Both of us just really wanted to watch the remaining matches of the World Cup on Khao Sarn Road with all the people from the countries still alive in the tournament.

Only a few last days together, we made the most of it--making friends with some wonderful new Thai friends, reconnecting with the English teachers from Maryland, and staying out very late each night in order to catch every World Cup game possibly aired. It was a fun couple of days, and here are some pictures to highlight our final days together.

Danielle and Nina--my new friends from Maryland.

A good turnout for Holland's semi-final match while on Khao Sarn Road.

Mr. Andres Guidobono.

New Thai friends who are studying at various universities in Bangkok.

Never a dull moment with Andres. Never.

Me, Pim, and the remains of a few Flower Games.

The night of the World Cup championship on Khao Sarn Road.

Meeting Tukkie--a comedian, TV and Thai movie star!

Alas, my time with Andres came to an end. He left on July 10th, and now, I was very much on my own for three more weeks in Thailand. I had a few options available for my remaining time in Asia. I considered going back up to Chiang Rai and then taking a slowboat down into Laos as well as traveling into Cambodia. I considered going back to the islands and visit the ones I hadn't seen before (and maybe attend another Full Moon Party). Finally, I considered staying in Bangkok for the rest of my time in Southeast Asia.

Ultimately, my decision was made for me. Due to the fact I was still babying my foot injury and patiently waiting for the cut to close up, I could not go into water. So, traveling back to the islands in south Thailand was out.

Then, after talking a lot to other tourists and travel agencies about the conditions and modernity of Cambodia and Laos, I decided to not travel north and risk infection in either of those countries as well as not having access to quality medical care. So, with both of those alternative plans no longer viable options for my last three weeks, I stayed put right there in Bangkok and in my hotel near Khao Sarn Road.

Three weeks on my own in Bangkok was quite an unexpected opportunity since I wasn't able to participate in the summer program at Thammasat University in Bangkok. I also hadn't yet taken advantage of the numerous resources available in that city to learn about Thai history, culture, and Buddhism. With an amazing group of new Thai friends and nothing but time, I took full advantage of my last few weeks in Bangkok by visiting museums, Buddhist temples, reading books, and asking questions or just talking to my Thai friends any chance I had. Needless to say, I learned a LOT.

As far as sharing pictures from all the places I visited during those weeks in Bangkok, I (unfortunately) lost my camera shortly after Andres left. I wasn't being irresponsible, but I definitely managed to lose it as the result of minor negligence. You must understand that a common mode of transportation in Bangkok are motorbike taxi. However, the one I was on when I lost my camera was when I was on my way to the Royal Barge Museum--my first cultural destination in Bangkok.

You see, this particular motorbike taxi ride was not like any other I had been on before. It was even scary compared to the rides I took in Hanoi, Viet Nam (see the video). A new friend (Sebastian) and I had taken a ferry across the river one day to visit the museum--home of the Royal Barges that are used in the processions for the King: a very big ceremony to honor both the 50th and 60th anniversary of the current king's succession to the throne. An important side note: King Rama IX has reigned longer than any other monarch in Thai history (64 years!).

Anyway, after getting off the ferry, we each jumped on the back of a motorbike taxi for a ride to the museum. Although this was a rather short ride, it was one I'll never forget because we went through walkways, sidewalks, and allies that were barely wide enough for the motorbike to squeeze through let alone wide enough for me on the bac--knees sticking out on either side. I hung on for dear life, squeezed my legs in at every turn, and feared collision every time we passed someone walking or another motorbike. How it was even possible for us to navigate through those "streets," I'll never know. After incredible maneuvering on my driver's part, a few readjustments on my part, and one or two death-defying turns, we arrived safely (for the most part--my heart was racing).

Now at the museum, I noticed there was an extra fee if I wanted to use my camera and take pictures, so of course, I intended to pay. This triggered me to check my pocket for my camera, and once I did, I noticed that pocket--my back left--was now empty! It was at this moment when I realized that my camera must've worked itself out of my pocket (probably not the best choice for storing my camera on the motorbike ride), and with three weeks of my stay left, I was now without a camera. Juuuust great . . .

The days following that unfortunate incident consisted of numerous afternoons relaxing and drinking coffee at my hotel's cafe, mornings spent visiting museums and temples, and evenings going out to eat or to movies with my friends--both American and Thai. I had many days to myself where I would read, type up overdue Dandygrams, or just watch movies on my MacBook in my air-conditioned room. Eventually, I had no regrets about not going to Cambodia, Laos, or the islands because I had the best time getting to know my new friends and Thailand better. As well, I was able to see and experience parts of Thai culture, religion, and cuisine that I know I would not have had the chance to experience if I left Bangkok. It was an incredible month. I really want to take a moment to thank Pim and her friends for their patience with my inability to speak Thai and their amazing ability to use English and teach me many things about Thailand. คุณขอบคุณ

With my time in Thailand and Southeast Asia quickly coming to an end--and now being back home--I have many things I want to briefly reflect on during my time abroad (these are in no specific order whatsoever):

~I fell in love with Chiang Rai (a beautiful city in northern Thailand).

~I gained a greater appreciation for the simple pleasures in life.

~I love when it rains (for example).

~I realized the difficulties of learning a language with very little similarities to English.

~I did, however, manage to learn (some) Thai and Vietnamese.

~I taught the ABCs to a group of wonderful Thai children on a Saturday morning--twice.

~I rode an elephant and then cuddled a tiger in Chaing Mai.

~I am really proud of my cousin Rachel and her husband Nate.

~I made new friends from all over the world.

~I became better friends with Ruben, Elliott, Christa, and Brady.

~I have a new love for French Bulldogs--especially deaf ones.

~I played a new game (That's What You Did)

~I invented a new game (The Flower Game).

~I am very fond of the game Apples to Apples.

~I have a new all-time favorite Thai dish: Cow Soi.

~I became addicted to Papaya Salad.

~I cut my foot open from jumping on a big bottle of Chang on Koh Phangan.

~I spent three nights in a hospital and got nine stitches.

~I racked up a $5,000 bill at the hospital on Koh Samui.

~I went to one of the biggest parties in the world . . . on crutches.

~I won money betting on my friends' Muay Thai matches on Koh Phi Phi.

~I lost . . . my camera, my watch, my awesome fedora, my bandanna, 5 million VND ($250), my BlackBerry, numerous pairs of fake RayBans, and at poker.

~I watched a Thai movie after meeting the leading actress.

~I became a much bigger fan of soccer . . . and Holland.

~I now like more Canadians than just my extended family who lives there.

~I spent way too much money for 10 weeks in Southeast Asia.

~I will never tell everything that happened.

~I did not spend enough time in Viet Nam.

~I ate the spiciest meal of my life with my friend Pim.

~I now have a very dear friend in Thailand (Pim).

~I cried (a few times) when I said my goodbyes.

~I bought way too many shirts from Khao Sarn Road.

~I drank way too many Changs and Singhas.

~I did not eat enough street food.

~I did not (and will never) go to a Ping Pong Show.

~I did not bring back enough presents for my friends and family.

~I am very thankful for Skype, Facebook, and email.

~I only paid $3/night for an amazing hotel accommodation in Hoi An, Viet Nam.

~I can finally walk without limping.

~I like Bangkok.

~I dislike everything about the roads and driving in Viet Nam.

~I hate human trafficking and child prostitution.

~I love The SOLD Project and everything they have done, are doing, and will do.

~I love Thais.

~I admire Buddhism.

~I miss a lot of people.

~I am happy to be home.

~I am glad I still have both of my feet.

~I can't wait to go back to Thailand.

~I will go back to Thailand.

~I am now much happier and alive because I went to Thailand.

Next up on The Dandygram: California to D.C. in 30 Days or BUST!

Our Final Days on Koh Phi Phi

Well, I definitely waited (or procrastinated) waaaaaay too long to write this Dandygram and be able to include detailed stories of my last few days on Koh Phi Phi with Andres, but what I can tell you is that it only got better as time went on.

Once the rain finally let up from the first few days, we were able to get out on the beach (although I still could not get into the water), soak up some rays, and go for a walk to see all the places we frequented after the sun would go down. It was actually a long stretch of beach on the one side of the small strip in the middle of the island (see pictures below), and with an abundance of places to stop and wet our whistles, we needed a nap under the shade in some of the numerous beach chairs. Plus, it was getting VERY hot at that point in the afternoon.

Andres and I only had a few more days on the island before heading back to Bangkok, so we made the most of it--typically spending our nights trying to find something different to eat, watching Muay Thai at Reggae Bar, and wondering down the beach for a bucket (or two) and some dancing under the moon.

While the remaining nights went the same, there were always small surprises along the way. For the sake of getting this Dandygram out, I'm going to now flood you with a few pictures highlighting my remaining days on Koh Phi Phi in order to get on with stories of my last month in Southeast Asia. Also, my foot was healing up quite well with the stitches in . . . well, sorta.

My foot--eight days after the incident.

Our group watching Muay Thai in Reggae Bar.

The most economical way to drink.

Still smiling even with 9 stitches and a bit of a limp.

Three straws, one bucket, too much fun.

The best photo for 100 Baht ($3).

Moments before Andres' Muay Thai match. He won--of course.

Self explanatory . . .

Koh Phi Phi from the viewpoint . . .

. . . and then moments later.

The best way I could celebrate July 4th.

I wasn't the only one who had a foot injury!

Leaving Koh Phi Phi was a sad, sad day indeed.

Leaving the same way we came.

Getting ready for the World Cup games back in Bangkok--go HOLLAND!

So, there you have it. My time on Koh Phi Phi had come to an end. I had made more friends, had reunited with Andres, watched numerous Muay Thai matches, danced until I couldn't feel my foot, purchased a few too many buckets, and created memories that would last a lifetime.

At this point, I had a month left in my trip and yet I still had to baby my foot, so I decided to cut my time on the islands short and return to Bangkok with Andres. There, we would watch the remaining World Cup matches and championship before he left to go back to Argentina (July 10th). So, with only a month left, I think I can wrap up my trip to Southeast Asia in a final Dandygram . . . but don't hold me to that.

Next up on The Dandygram: 30 Days in Bangkok.

Off My Crutches On Koh Phi Phi, Muay Thai Boxing, and Andres' Arrival!

I was once again on my own after effortlessly extending my stay on Koh Phangan (a full two nights following the Full Moon Party), but once I finally got my sh*t together, I booked transportation to Koh Phi Phi. From what I had been told by all the travelers I had met and from my numerous new friends on Koh Phangan, Koh Phi Phi was the place to recover from the madness of the Full Moon Party.

Despite its appeal to those who had just washed off the glow-in-the-dark paint, Koh Phi Phi is always a place of serenity, quiet beaches, and amazing sunsets. Honestly, I didn't really care what "they" told me about Koh Phi Phi--I just needed to get OFF of that island for fear that I might stay and be the guy who has been there a month since the last Full Moon Party because he wanted to do it all over again 31 days later. Um, no thank you.

Saying more goodbyes that day (to Alice, Laura, Alicia, Tyrone, etc.) then I'd like to remember, I boarded my first sleeper boat for a journey that--still to this day--I can't quite map out other than the fact that I knew I was headed to an island on the eastern shore of the southern part of Thailand. I'm not quite sure why we took a sleeper boat and not a sleeper bus, but at this point in my travels, I've become a sheep. When it comes to changing locations, I just go with the rest of the herd . . . so off I went. Baaah!

For a pleasant surprise, I boarded with two of my friends I had met in Vietnam who had also stayed a few doors down from me in the same hotel on Koh Phangan (two sisters--Mariana and Michelle--from . . . you guessed it: Argentina!). To get some sense of what this sleeper boat was like, I took one picture, but it really doesn't do justice to the level of comfort I experienced for nine hours . . . solid SLEEEEEP!

Although the sleeper boat may not look comfortable, it was simply marvelous! I had been experiencing horrible sleep in my final nights in my hotel room on Koh Phangan because of the mixture of humidity in the room, no air conditioning, little-to-no ventilation, massive amounts of sand covering my sheets, and my being bed harder than wood (don't know how that is possible but it is the truth). My sleep was just plain awful, but I know that I had been quite spoiled from my adjustable bed in the hospital room. In my defense of not being that high-maintenance, I could also attribute my poor sleep to the on-again/off-again pain from my foot that would throb and wake me up at random points throughout the night! Needless to say, the sleeper boat--with its ocean breeze, fans, and soft mattresses--allowed me a solid nine hours!

Once I finally came to early the next morning, the sun had started to rise in the Gulf of Thailand, and our next transit stop was now less than an hour away. What's more, the pain in my foot had started to subside. Thankfully, I had also started to wane myself off my pain medication (well actually, I started to run out of it), but I still had about a week left on anti-biotics.

I was still a bit scared about the risk of infection since my cut was healing very, very slowly. It probably didn't help that I had ditched my crutches the day after the Full Moon Party partly because I could limp around okay without them but more so because I couldn't even manage to use them since the blister on my hand had grown to the size of a quarter from the night before out on the beach. My hand and its blister had gotten to the point where it hurt more to put weight on it than on my foot, and presently, my hand is still healing from that damn blister whereas my foot is almost back to feeling normal--go figure!

We made it to Krabi that morning long enough to get a few coffees and a small breakfast. Almost immediately afterward, we were shuttled to the pier, boarded our ferry, and within a few short hours back on the water, we finally reached paradise: Koh Phi Phi!

This has easily been one of my favorite Thai destinations and for a number of reasons. First, I met a friendly Canadian guy as we were all getting off the boat who had also made friends with some of the others on the boat who I was talking to. David was by himself, so we quickly became friends and agreed to split the costs for a room. Once, we followed all the girls around to find their hotels while checking the prices for ourselves, we settled on a place right between the two beaches of Koh Phi Phi--the one is in the picture above (used primarily for taxi boats and ferries), and the other is where the nice beach is and where all the parties happen at night! Here's a good arial view to get an idea of the island and the little strip with beaches on either side:

Second, everything that happens on that island essentially goes down right on that little strip in the middle of the island, and it's amazing because you can walk the entire width of the strip--from the pier side to beach side--in less than 10 minutes. Finally, there are no cars or motorbikes on the island--only bicycles. So needless to say, it was an absolutely peaceful place to be and served as a great break from taxis, loud motorbikes, and aggressive traffic on Koh Phangan!

For our first night there, David and I got settled into our room--pure luxury at a great price. This room had A/C, nice comfortable beds, and thick comforters to keep the A/C nice and cold but stay warm through the night. As for a room with A/C in Southeast Asia, it becomes an interesting game. In a room with all guys or by myself, you tend to set the A/C at a certain level thinking it's a safe temperature through the night. Then, about 3 hours into your sleep, you wake up FREEZING, so you turn it up a few degrees only to wake up hot, sweaty, and uncomfortable a few hours later. I guess we could've set the timer or make the necessary adjustments, but as guys, you only have patience for full-blast, always on, and always cold A/C, so you just learn to deal with it. Thankfully, the room came with those thick comforters, so it was easy to escape the frost-bitingly-cold air circulating in the room.

After taking our first showers in nearly two days--and with salt water at that (the only drawback to our room), we realized that we were able to get the free Wi-Fi signal from the bookstore directly across the street. We were then convinced we had the best room on Koh Phi Phi, and after spending too much time on Facebook and swapping movies, we found our friends and a watering hole we would visit every night during our stay on Koh Phi Phi: Reggae Bar. Reggae Bar, however, didn't play much reggae or even have their staff equipped with dreads; instead, this was the place to watch live Muay Thai Boxing--between Thais but more entertaining was the matches between random backpackers!

Personally, I have never been much of a fan of any form of fighting--not UFC, wrestling, or boxing--but once David and I walked into Reggae Bar and felt the energy from all the other groups of backpackers who had been convinced by their friends to fight other random backpackers that night, it was easy to stay, order a bucket, and watch some Muay Thai. As well, David had recently trained in Muay Thai while traveling in Thailand and was excited to see there was going to be definite chance to put his new skills to the test against an unsuspecting backpacker . . .

Just like the other groups that had convinced one of their friends it was a great idea to go up against someone else for three 1-minute rounds in the ring, David needed no convincing to go in the ring for a fight, and I promised him that I would find someone of equal stature and weight for his match.

The next day, I woke up earlier than I would have liked to but was excited to greet two friends I met in Bangkok before heading south to Koh Phangan--Mara and Tara from NYC! They were so great to be around because we shared many similar stories from our experiences as Americans traveling in Asia, and there were many more stories to share from back home. Plus, it was just great to hear them talk, as I have said many times before: the American accent and American backpackers have been quite the rarity in my travels this summer.

So, with another day on Koh Phi Phi and everyone in our (growing) group now shacking up at the same hotel (Phi Phi Princess), I needed to get myself back to sleep in order to catch up from the early wake-up. Plus, it was SO hot out that day, and after a few hours at the pier waiting for the New York gals in the heat, I was definitely not ready to go to the beach. Unfortunately, my decision to go back in the cold A/C and my bed wash something I would soon regret over the next few days because that day's sunshine would soon be gone for the next two days . . .

With the heat, early wake-up, and a small hangover from too many buckets at Reggae Bar and on the beach the night before, I was completely unproductive and became very lazy spending the rest of the day in my hotel room. While I napped and waited for Mara and Tara to catch up on their sleep in preparation for their first night on Koh Phi Phi, I watched every episode of the first season of How to Make It in America (many thanks to David and his expansive TV/movie collection!).

Once I finished the season, I felt recuperated and was instantly surprised to read a message from Andres! He had written to let me know that his plans to stay with friends in Cambodia had changed and that he would now be arriving solo to Koh Phi Phi at 3pm the next day! So, with another night ahead of us, David and I got our group together to show Mara and Tara what Koh Phi Phi was all about. Unfortunately, I left my camera in my hotel room for the second night in a row, so I have no pictures to share, but only memories in my head that can just stay there.

The next day was much the same, and our established routine was feeling great. However, this was an exciting day due to Andres' arrival, but when I got up for breakfast with Mara and Tara, it was raining cats and dogs! Rain isn't uncommon this time of year, but Koh Phi Phi takes it personally since they experienced a devastating tsunami in December 2004 that brought massive floods and destruction to the entire strip I had described above. If you can stomach it, here is a graphic YouTube video of what happened that fateful day. Needless to say, the relentless rain that morning doesn't feel like the rain at other places around Thailand. For me, rain was still my enemy because of needing to keep my foot dry, so it was a bit frustrating dodging the huge puddles that had collected in the streets on my walk to meet Andres at the pier.

It was absolutely great to see him and know that he would have fun on Koh Phi Phi during his final days in Southeast Asia. As well, adding a bed in our room for him cut the cost down for David and I, and Andres was completely content on his roll-away!

With great expectations for the night ahead of us, Andres and I did our best to get David excited about his match as we waited out the rain for the nightlife to set in on the streets right outside our door! For some reason, David was nervous, but at the same time, he didn't have much to really fear because we soon found a nice enough guy from England for him to fight and we stayed in his corner for the entire match.

Of course, David won but not without a lot of work on his part. As you can tell from the picture after it was over, he fought like an ANIMAL and was completely exhausted as well as mildly injured with a swollen ankle from a good kick against his opponent in the third round. Well done David--you worked hard for the free bucket!!! As well, Andres and I had confidence in his abilities before the match, so we made a few bets with his opponents friends and others in the stands that ended up funding few nights at the hotel, drinks, and food!

From the looks of this Dandygram, I do believe I need to end Dandygram post and catch you up with the rest of our stay on Koh Phi Phi in another one, so . . . . .

Next up on The Dandygram: Sunshine, Beach Time, and Andres' Muay Thai Match During Our Final Days on Koh Phi Phi!

The Full Moon Party (albeit on crutches), Body Painting, and Impromptu Limbo on Haad Rin Beach!

I was finally released from the hospital on Saturday (June 26th) after three days and three nights, and believe me--it felt o-mazing! Freed from my I.V., I could now get on with my traveling and get back to my friends, clean clothes, and the FULL MOON PARTY!

Leaving the hospital to many sweet "goodbyes" from the wonderful hospital staff, I made my way via taxi to the ferry station to catch the 4pm ferry back to Koh Phangan. While I waited, I took my first long wobble down the gnarly dock with my new crutches. This was my first real chance to wobble around beyond the hospital hallways and see how I could manage for a long night with my snazzy crutches.

No surprise. It sucked, but I remained positive because I always turn frowns upside down, so with a smile from the paid vacation from my vacation, I headed back to Koh Phangan! My injury, however, was still very tender and also susceptible to re-opening, bleeding, infection, or worse . . . amputation (j/k!), so I reaallllly needed to baby it during the next few days--especially on the beach that night.

Once I arrived back to Koh Phangan, I was greeted by Sam and friends in and around the town after dropping off my bag at the hotel. They were so positive about my foot, but they could barely contain their excitement because they were in the middle of making all the necessary purchases for the party: body paint, face paint, outrageous outfits, Full Moon Party shirts and tank-tops, bright colored accessories, numerous bottles/bags of ice/sodas/red bulls for buckets on the beach, and anything else tacky enough to wear while in the sea of thousands that would soon be gathering for a full night of dancing on Haad Rin Beach. My only accessory upon arrival? My crutches, so needless to say, I had a bit of shopping to do.

There is a brief note that must preface my Full Moon Party stories as well as for my explanation in my choice of attire. Well, there are two things actually . . .

First, I was not to get my foot wet, and based on the instructions from the doctor for showering each day, he said it was best for me to I sit down during a shower with my foot propped up or somehow rig my foot on the top of the toilet or something high enough to keep it from getting wet while I showered (showers in Thailand are typically part of the same part of the bathroom as the toilet and sink are in--think one big room with a drain--and the shower area has no curtains, bathtubs, walls, etc.).

Second, after I went around town making my preparatory Full Moon Party purchases, we gathered back at the hotel to start painting and then it started to POUR--the first time in at least a week. It seemed like the sky was making up for the lost time because it lasted for 3 hours straight! Therefore, I needed to take precautionary measures with my foot, so I decided it would be best to wear two socks and have a plastic bag between each sock as well as another plastic bag rubber-banded around my heal outside the two socks to prevent water from penetrating my cut.

Because I needed to take the crazy contortionist-style showers, I did not want to be in the shower any longer than I had to, so I kept the paint off my body and instead painted my new FMP tank-top. USA played their first Round 2 game that night (they lost), so I decided to look like a football fan and went to work painting a big US flag on the front. Then, I put a little slogan on the back to taunt the thousands of Brits on the island (about 95% of the tourists there) since they were going to play their first Round 2 game the following night, which was also a loss for England (same same, but different).

Alas, here are the pictorial highlights from our group's Full Moon Party preparations!

After the rain finally let up, it was almost 10:30pm, so we made our way down to the beach. It was on this walk that we realized the massiveness of the party. People had filled the streets leading down to the beach, and it was incredibly easy to lose members of your group. I, however, was able to clear a fairly large path (with mah crutches) and keep people together by raising them high in the air if we got split up. I swear, I was probably the ONLY person on crutches that night since most injuries occur the night of the Full Moon Party--not three days before.

My crutches worked great as a method through the madness because we managed to stick together and arriving to the beach ready to party under the moon. Unfortunately, I had an even harder time once on the beach because of something that happened on our walk . . .

So in the middle of most roads throughout Thailand, there blocks of cement that have been cut out and replaced by cement drains with holes cut into them to prevent flooding and standing water. As you can probably imagine, I was already having a hard time dodging these damn holes on my crutches in the crowded streets, and of course (!), I managed to get my right crutch stuck inside one of those freaking holes just a block away from the beach.

Getting my crutch lodged into the hole wasn't much of a problem at all. The problem came when I went to pull it out and realized the rubber footing at the end of my crutch was now stuck deep inside the hole! Just great. Getting situated and coming to terms with the fact that I was not going to get another rubber piece, my right crutch was now about an inch shorter than my left, and I made a "ting-crunch" sounding noise every time I took a wobble on the cement.

This new situation was good for a few laughs, but it turned out to be worse than I imagined because once on the beach, the crutch without the rubber footing would sink about 4 inches down into the sand every single time I wobbled. It really couldn't have been more frustrating (I mean, I guess I could have been in a wheelchair where it would have been impossible to go on the beach), but what's more is that water was now soaking through my socks and USA was now out of the World Cup because they had lost their game against Ghana. Boo freaking hoo.

Nevertheless, all of my friends were patient with this added burden to my already-getting-sore-under-the-armpits-and-blistering-of-the-hands-wobbling around, so shortly after making out to the beach (with buckets in hand, mine in Sam's), we realized we could make the most of the situation by not moving around too much and instead using my crutches to start an impromptu limbo competition. It didn't take long to get a long line formed with numerous limboers getting very serious about their limboing. As well, some of them managed to get extremely low on the sand that night--not an easy feat!

The remainder of the Full Moon Party was absolutely incredible: thousands of tourists and Thai people dancing side-by-side on a night celebrating the full moon.

After hours upon hours of dancing, singing, and wobbling up and down the beach visiting dance floor after dance floor, I had to call it a night around 5am, and I did not, unfortunately, get to see the sun rise that morning. Staying up until the sun rises is a big part of the party. I, on the other hand, went home with tender/bruised armpits, a gnarly blister on my right hand from my lopsided crutch, and amazing memories from the week at Koh Phangan and in the Koh Samui hospital. And actually, I will never forget my time there because I now have a scar on my left foot to always bring me back!

The next morning, I was up around noon and found an internet cafe to have lunch and surf the web. Honestly, my time that afternoon at the cafe was the most memorable experience that week (next to getting stitches) because while I sat on the second story on the street, eating my lunch, I saw countless people stumbling back from the beach--searching for their hotels, into random restaurants for meal, or into 7-Elevens in search for who knows what because it didn't seem that they even knew where they were or their own names. It was absolutely hilarious and priceless to see that part of the party.

My time in Koh Phangan had been really good; the chance to attend the Full Moon Party was epic to say the least. Meeting Sam Bullard there on the dock was also completely unexpected and having him as a travel partner in Koh Phangan was really a life-saver. Finally, I was excited to get the move on and go to Koh Phi Phi for a possible meet up with Andres and quite definitely for some exploration of another island during my time in southern Thailand!

Next up on The Dandygram: Off My Crutches On Koh Phi Phi, Muay Thai Boxing, and Andres' Arrival!